We’ve all heard of puppy socialisation and how important it is. But what is socialisation, why is it
important, and how can you make sure that your own dog is well-socialised?

Puppy socialisation refers to the process of exposing your puppy to a variety of experiences in a
controlled way, so that he gets used to different situations and learns to react appropriately.

Puppies that are widely socialised in a positive manner are more likely to grow into happy
confident dogs, but puppies who miss out on experiences early on or who have negative
experiences are more likely to become fearful or nervous dogs.

Timing

Puppies’ brains are wired to be more responsive to new experiences at specific times in their
development. Most of the important and long-lasting socialisation experiences will take place in
the first few months of their life, so it’s important to get started early!

Before you get your puppy

Nature versus Nurture:

A puppies’ personality and temperament will be at least partly determined by their parents. Dogs
that are calm, relaxed, confident and friendly will be more likely to produce puppies that are
emotionally well balanced. Dogs that are nervous, highly strung, or suspicious of strangers are
likely to have puppies who struggle to adapt and may be anxious or aggressive as adults.
When you are choosing a puppy it is important to meet the parents and see the puppy with his
littermates.

• Is mum happy and relaxed?
  
• Does she want to say hello to you?
  

If yes, then her puppies are more likely to grow into confident and relaxed dogs (with your help of
course!).

If mum is nervous and worried then her puppies may be the same and struggle to adapt to day to
day life as they grow up. In short, if you want a German Shepherd that will be your family pet, then
choose a German Shepherd breeder who’s dogs are pets, and avoid litters from guard dogs or
police dogs.

The right environment:

It can also help to choose a puppy from an environment similar to your own home, so that the
puppy is exposed to appropriate experiences as early as possible. If you have children then try
and choose a puppy from a family home so she is used to the sights and sounds of family life.

Puppies that are born into a home environment will have early exposure to things like kettles,
televisions, phones and doorbells, but puppies that are born in a kennels may be frightened of
these things when you bring them home.

8-12 weeks:

Most puppies come to their new home around 8 or 9 weeks. Although you’ll need to be careful
where you take your puppy until she’s had all of her vaccinations, you can start socialising her
right away!

Things you can work on inside your own house and garden include getting used to a collar and
lead, sounds like kettles, washing machines, doorbells, greeting visitors, children and other pets,
basic training: sit, stay, down, come and being home alone.

Speak to your vet team for tips on how to introduce these things in a gradual and positive way so
that your puppy doesn’t get worried or stressed.

Even though your puppy hasn’t had all of his vaccinations at this stage you can still introduce him
to your own garden and other dogs (they must be fully vaccinated and up to date!). Stand back
and let him explore your garden and parts of the house on his own so that he can develop some
independence; just watch him carefully so that he’s not getting into any trouble! You can even
take him further afield in the car, on the school run, to the park or around your local area.

You’ll need to carry him until he’s had all of his vaccinations and make sure you don’t put him on
the floor or allow him to mix with unvaccinated dogs, but allowing your new puppy to experience
sights and sounds outside of his own house early on will help him develop into a confident and
relaxed adult dog.

3 months and Longer:

By 12 weeks old many puppies will have had all of their vaccinations and be safe to go outside
into public areas and mix with a wider variety of dogs. (Always speak to your vet about the timing
of your own puppy’s vaccinations and when it is safe to start exploring!).

At this point you can let your puppy walk on the pavement, at the beach, and in the park. It is
important to continue the basic training you started when you brought your puppy home, but now
you can also take your puppy to classes and day care. Take your puppy with you to visit cafes,
town centres, busy or loud environments, and on public transport.

Although it is important to start early, your puppy is always learning and reacting and she will
continue to build her personality as she grows. Continuing to encourage her to explore a wide
range of places and experiences in a positive and controlled way will help her to grow into a
relaxed and confident dog.

Your Puppy’s Socialisation Checklist

We’ve come up with a list of things to introduce your puppy to in the first few months but it is not
a complete list. Some things on the list may be more relevant than others for your own puppy.
The key is to expose them to as many things and situations as possible in a controlled and
positive way.

Some things to consider include:

● SOUNDS: doorbells, mobile phones, television, car horns, traffic, babies crying,
fireworks, thunder, hairdryers and hoovers, kettles.

● PLACES: town centres, vets, training class, parkland, woods, water, the beach, the
car, public transport, cafes and pubs.

● OBJECTS: plastic bottles, umbrellas, bags, laundry baskets, bicycles and
scooters, pushchairs, gates, wheelchairs and mobility scooters, walking aids.

● PEOPLE: young people and babies, old people, men, women, people with beards
or glasses, people wearing hats, people in uniform, crossing guards.

● ANIMALS: other dogs, family pets like cats or rabbits or birds, horses,
livestock SMELLS: food cooking, people wearing perfume or aftershave.

● TEXTURES: carpets, pavement, earth, grass, sand, cobblestones, rubber mats,
tiles, steps, wooden paths or platforms, open stairways, cattle grids

A few tips on PEOPLE…

It is important to teach your puppy to interact with a wide range of people and to do so
appropriately. As soon as you bring your puppy home, teach him to greet people politely, without
jumping up.

Although it can be tempting to use food as a positive reinforcement for meeting new people, do
so with caution: You don’t want your dog to expect a food treat from everyone he sees.
Encourage people to crouch down to greet your puppy so that she feels less intimidated. Ask
people to let your puppy approach them rather than allowing people to pick her up or pull her with
the lead.

What about other ANIMALS…

It is important to allow your puppy to meet lots of different animals, including cats, horses, farm
animals, and small pets, especially if you live in an area where your dog will see other animals on
a regular basis. Always do so in a controlled way to avoid worrying the other animal. Keep your
puppy on a lead, and if she is too boisterous, then back her away until she calms down. Always
keep your dog on a lead if there is a chance that it may meet sheep or cattle, as it can be a
criminal offence to allow your dog to worry livestock.

Allow your puppy to meet and play with a variety of other dogs, but monitor them closely. If
puppies learn early on to play very aggressively with other dogs, then they may expect that later
on. Have a think about how you would like your puppy to greet and play with other dogs in the
future, and, if play is getting too boisterous, then encourage your puppy away and distract her with
another game. If another dog is being too physical with your puppy, do not be afraid to ask other
owners to call their dog away.

A word on Positive versus Negative Training

When your puppy does something well, such as sitting on command or coming back when called,
you can use a reward to help encourage him to repeat that behaviour:

For example, a treat for lying down when told. Or you may use a reward in a new situation to help
puppies understand that something is safe, such as giving your puppy a favourite toy when you
leave her home alone.

These sorts of rewards are called Positive Reinforcement. Most people think of food treats as the
best way to provide positive reinforcement. However, food isn’t the only type of reward, it may not
be appropriate in every situation, and it doesn’t appeal to all dogs.

For example, you’ll want to think carefully before getting everyone in the park to give your puppy
a treat or soon he’ll be running up to everyone and raiding their bags and pockets for anything
edible… or not edible!

In some situations it may be better to use gentle praise or calm stroking to let your puppy know
that her behaviour is appropriate.

If we use something to deter a puppy from a particular behaviour then this is called Negative
Reinforcement. An example of this would be making a loud noise, or using a water pistol to
discourage a behaviour.

Sometimes negative reinforcement is out of our control, such as an attack from another dog,
or surprise fireworks on your evening walk. While we may use negative reinforcement as part
of training sometimes, it is may not be appropriate for every situation, and behaviour
achieved through negative reinforcement may not be as long-lasting as behaviour
encouraged with positive training.

Wherever possible try to use positive reward-based training in order to socialise and train your
puppy. This will encourage long-lasting good behaviour, and ensure that your puppy is bonded to
you and trusts you.

How will I know if my puppy is worried… and what should I do about it?

In the process of introducing your puppy to all of these new sights and sounds, watch her closely
to make sure that she is happy and relaxed, not worried or scared. Signs of a happy puppy
include relaxed body posture, tail wagging, eyes soft. They may crouch with their bottom in the
air and tail wagging.

If your puppy is worried about something then she may be more tense. You may notice that she
yawns or licks her lips more. She might back away and cower, or even tremble. When you think
your puppy is worried in a particular situation then calmly back away until she seems more
relaxed, and try again later. Try to never force your puppy into a situation where they are fearful.

All puppies, and especially shy or worried puppies, can benefit from the use of pheromones to
help them settle into their new home and help them to explore their new environment. These can
come in the form of sprays, plug in diffusers, or as a collar that the dog wears. The pheromones
help puppies to feel safe and relaxed which encourages them to adapt and explore new things.
Ask a member of your Vet team about a version that will suit your puppy.

Here are the key points to recap

• Good socialisation is vital to helping your puppy grow into a happy, confident, and relaxed dog
  
• Start early! Choose a puppy from a breeder that suits you, and be prepared to start introducing
  your puppy to new things as soon you bring him home.
  
• Talk to your vet about when your puppy can go out, and ways to socialise her until she is safe
  to go out and about.
  
• Use positive reinforcement to help your puppy get used to new things

• Never force your puppy into a situation when they are scared or nervous. Use positive
  encouragement to help her relax.
  
• Although dogs are less responsive to new experiences as they get older, socialisation continues
  through adult life.
  
• Enjoy it! Helping your puppy get used to their environment and helping them grow into happy
  dogs is part of the fun of owning a dog!